What To Know About the New Fashion Week

Street Style photographers by Amanda Lin for Couturesque at NYFW SS16.
Genderless, seasonless, limitless.
Image: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2016 / courtesy of Burberry

On Friday, Burberry announced that they will only show “seasonless” collections in February and September, at which time menswear and womenswear, along with its three lines—Prorsum, London, and Brit—are all to be combined. Tom Ford has also decided to follow the February-September business model and both brands will make the collections available for sale in-store and online immediately after the runway - a see-now, buy-now concept. Paris-based brand Vetements are also ditching gendered collections and opting to present in January and June. Finally, Rebecca Minkoff will show SS16 at this month's New York Fashion Week instead of last fall. Things are changing quickly, and we've got the low-down on what to expect from these new innovations. 

1. See-Now, Buy-Now models create stronger consumer connections.
With such immediate access, everyone—customers, editors, and fans—will be able to explore the collections as soon as they are presented. Tom Ford himself told WWD that the brand’s clientele want collections that are immediately available, and expressed his disagreement with the current “antiquated” system that “no longer makes sense” in today’s fashion industry. Christopher Bailey, Burberry CEO and Creative Director, assures that this creative process will continue to evolve.

2. Gender will no longer rule the catwalk.
Combining menswear and womenswear might be wiser than you thought. As Demna Gvasalia, Creative Director of Vetements and Balenciaga, pointed out to Vogue, gender is not something that is given anymore—people have the right to choose one. The designer argued that making fashion binary is not part of “today’s natural flow.” Likewise, Christopher Bailey revealed in an interview with BoF that fashion stories can be stronger when combining menswear and womenswear into one collection. Here at Couturesque, we are all in favor of creating an industry that allows people to be comfortable in their own individuality; gender should not limit this.

3. Designers can work at a more reasonable pace.
We've talked a lot about the issue of demanding industry standards inhibiting creativity in fashion; there is simply not enough time. The traditional system requires designers to present as many as 11 full collections in one year, often spurring significant resigations. (Need an updated list? Donna Karan, Alexander Wang, Raf Simons, and Alber Elbaz all left major posts in 2015. 2016 has also brought rumors about Phoebe Philo leaving CĂ©line, Stefano Pilati from Ermenegildo Zegna, and Hedi Slimane from Saint Laurent, too.)  The new model we're seeing only requires two collections per year, or at the very least reduces some of the load.

4. Creativity comes first.
Fashion purveyors also argue that copyists, who predominate at large fast fashion retailers like H&M and Zara, will no longer have the opportunity to cheat the system, as designer collections will be immediately available to shop and shoot. Think about it: if these collections become available for sale just as the shows are finished, can copyists realistically beat them to the market? Not that I can forsee. 

Some fashion analysts have expressed concerns about this new system, labeling it illogical and unnecessary. It may be an uphill battle at the beginning (it is still not known how magazines will adapt to seasonless collections), but nonetheless, our industry is entering a new era.
 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR
WHO: Ian Cavazos, News Editor at Couturesque magazine
WHERE: Monterrey, MX
OBSESSED WITH: Three-quarter length coats
CAN BE FOUND AT: @iancavazos

1 comment:

What do you think of this article?



  
  



I founded Couturesque Magazine when I was 15 years old because like many of my peers, I felt ignored and talked down to by all of the other teen fashion publications out there. I figured that at the end of the day, the people who knew the most about my generation, were the people who belonged to it. The fashion industry is becoming increasingly dependent on the creativity of younger voices who challenge the status quo and make us rethink what we wear and why we wear it. And that is exactly what Couturesque set out to celebrate - authenticity, intelligence, originality, and diversity... in other words, what makes Gen-Z tick. Fast-forward to 2016 and we now have a staff of more than a dozen fashion distruptors contributing to our daily content from all around the globe, 100K+ readers following us from Toronto to New York, to London, Copenhagen, Berlin, Tokyo, and Tel Aviv, and a plethora of big-wig industry fans and collaborators. But what matters to us the most is the responsibility that our publication has to make a positive impact in the lives of those who come across it - we stand against retouching our photoshoots and we stand for sharing the beautiful, individual, complex voices of everyone, especially those who feel marginalized by mainstream fashion media. We hope that you love our site as much as we do and that you take the time to follow us (Facebook / Twitter / Instagram / Pinterest / Tumblr / Snapchat / YouTube) throughout our journey to make fashion accessible to the powerful young adults of today.

xo,
Tia Elisabeth Glista
Editor in Chief