Group Chat: Alexander McQueen SS17

Dior by Maria Grazia Chiuri.
How our writers feel about the new collection.

Tia Elisabeth Glista, Editor in Chief: So what are your preliminary thoughts on the collection? Any highlights?

Alyssa Manuel, Senior Beauty Editor: I’m getting a more Renaissance vibe from this collection. The silhouettes are similar to the AW16 collection. I’m digging the layering of sheer fabrics with leather accessories.

Tia: Yes! The juxtaposition of materials is really cool. Sarah Burton does that so well - it’s like tough and punkish but ethereal and princess-y in the same breath.

Anna, Social Media Director: The embroidery is gorgeous, as always! I agree, it's similar to the AW16 collection in some ways, but I love the prescience of leather. I'm glad that the trend floral embroidery didn't just come and go, I love the way that different designers are continuing to explore it, especially on varying materials.

A photo posted by eletrikhman (@eletrikhman) on

Anna: I think this shoe [above] is amazing! Especially with the jeans.

Tia: That's so nice! And it’s funny because that picture on its own would make you think it’s like, Gucci or something, but then in the context of the rest of the details and moods of the look, it gets a whole new feeling.

Anna: Absolutely! Looking at images from the show, it seemed to have a really great atmosphere. I loved that a large runway was used, rather than a skinny catwalk. I think the clothes speak so loudly it's okay for them to exist in a large space without getting lost.

Tia: That’s a good way of putting it.  I also heard that the catwalk was uneven to give it a natural feeling, like rocks.  It’s cool to consider the clothes also beyond just a fashion context.

Anna: Yeah, I think it's interesting to look at today's fashion shows as performances, there are so many elements going on beyond the clothes themselves. Bigger designers like (like McQueen) have the budgets to put on these spectacular events so those are always fun to explore. I even noticed that Vogue Runway now has a section of images for each show that are meant to explore their 'atmosphere'.

Tia: Yeah! I see it as like a little window into the mind of the designer. It’s not just a garment that they’re building, but a world.



Anna: For sure.  Any thoughts on the knitwear?

Tia: Mixed feelings. I liked it paired with the sheer skirt, but I think that the sweater on its own felt a little bit out of place vs. the rest of the collection.

Anna: I agree... it really jumped out at me when I first saw it and I felt that it worked against the elegance of the rest of the collection and the brand of as a whole, but maybe it'll start to look like it fits in more when we see it in campaign images? That being said, there really is a full wardrobe for lots of different 'types' of women here... There are these gorgeous gowns, powersuits, and then cozy knits and playful denim.

Tia: I agree with that 100%.  Maybe it was just the styling, but it felt a little bit un-McQueen just on its own.  Like the rest of the collection had that very mystical, magical feeling the brand usually builds on, but the sweater as seemed... just kind of.... there.  But in the right context, on the right person, I have faith it could be great too.



Anna: Anyone have thoughts on hair and makeup? I thought it was really stunning and natural. I love seeing that 'faux wet look' in runway hair for some reason.

Alyssa: From a beauty perspective, overall, the simplicity of it really balanced out the entire look. Lucia Pieroni did a great job to avoid detracting attention away from the clothing pieces themselves. I love how the pieces were accessorized. So I appreciated how they decided against using hair pieces this time, because it made the earring/choker combo work that much better (And when there weren’t chokers, the detailing in the collar made it)

Yes! I’m so into that slicked back look! it just seemed much cleaner and more put together compared to last years “bees nest”

Tia: Love the wet hair look too.  I just wish they would have maybe done a littttttle bit more with the makeup because they always go for this look.  But it did make sense given the other details.

Anna: Agreed. With such a busy and varied collection, it was good to have a beauty look that transitioned between all the clothes.

Tia: I initially thought they could have done like a black lip or something but that would have changed the mood so much.  I think it would have been too dark and displaced the nice balance that the collection walked between light and heavy.

Alyssa: In the hair, there is quite an interesting detail in there, in the way that it is separated from the way it is combed down.

Anna: That's stunning.  I love the earrings.

Tia: Like the hair is kind of oceanic (Shetland islands, again) but the earrings make it so imperial. Almost like a Scottish mermaid.

A photo posted by Couturesque Magazine (@couturesquemag) on


Anna: I love the simplicity of the makeup that this image captures. When I first saw it I was struck by how much it looked like everyday makeup I would do for myself.

Tia: I like how they keep it light enough to still look like skin and show freckles, etc.  Any opinions on the casting?

Alyssa: As per usual, it would have been nice to have seen a little more diversity in the casting. Often times, I find that makeup artists get “lazy” with beauty for darker skin tones that the beauty doesn’t look cohesive throughout the models. You’ll oftentimes see the vision disappear. At least that is what I’ve noticed in major league shows like this.

Tia:  Interesting.  Can you expand on that?

Alyssa: Well in most shows, they tend to have different looks designed . For example, fresh face + red lip and sometimes not a red lip. But for this show, they all had the same hair and makeup. Most of the girls had rosy cheeks and flawless skin, but on the darker skin girls, you’ll see that they lose some elements.  This is just my personal experience but often times I’ll hear the excuse from other artists who say that “black people have good skin anyway” as a way for them to relieve the responsibility of being prepared for all skin tones like they should be.

Tia: It’s really unfortunate that that is still a problem.  I also noticed that it felt like the casting was a very typical casting package with just a couple of ‘token’ models of colour.  In terms of the strength of dynamic women that Alexander McQueen has always stood for as a brand, they definitely could have considered more diversity in the casting.

Read more: Catching up on Paris Fashion Week?  Here are our re-caps from Dior, FentyxPuma, Valentino, Stella McCartney, and Acne Studios.


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xo,
Tia Elisabeth Glista
Editor in Chief