Raf Simons brings us his sophomore collection for Calvin Klein, turning to influences of Americana and horror for Spring 2018.
To me, this is a much more mature, creative departure from his debut line with CK. The exaggeration of proportions and mixing of materials and prints is more evocative of the work that he does for his eponymous label, but obviously this is muted for a more mainstream consumer. It's also worth noting the attention to detail in the horror references - from the innocent A-line, Marion Crane-esque shapes in some looks, to Jason mask inspired heels, to aggressive grommets, or prints that evoke the musty interior of a killer's basement (green, poorly lit cement from that one skirt in particular). It's also a collection with more range; the dresses that closed the show are red carpet worthy while there are also options for day and evening throughout, versus the somewhat singular, standout looks from FW17 that we saw repeated again and again (ex. that yellow/pink feathered dress, and that 70s sporting suit).
The vinyl (is it vinyl?) paper-bag shaped dresses and tops are even a bit risqué. Are we supposed to associate them with garbage bags, and the connotations that a horror theme would attach to that? What are the ethics of sanitising and commercialising violence, or is it so abstract that there is a disconnection?