GUCCI PLAYS WITH GENDER, THE 80S, AND DISNEY FOR SPRING 2018
Gucci announced its SS18 collection yesterday morning as “the act of creation as an act of resistance,” preempting a collection described in the show notes as "a revolt [...] for an inalienable right to difference" and "the celebration of the freedom to decide about one’s own body and life."
The collection was both a blast from the past and a statement on structure. It featured 80s hits like leopard prints, blow-outs, flashy sequins, and statement sunglasses with a healthy dose of eye-catching, colourful, shoulder-padded suits, and a mass of luxury costume jewellery that reflected off of the strobe-lit runway. Other highlights included the loony-tunes and Disney character themed wool sweaters and vests that contrasted with the monochromatic pants and loose blouses.
Always one to poke at gender divisions in fashion, Alessandro Michele took things a step further this collection - albeit subtly - by continuing to fuse his womenswear and menswear lines more closely; male models were seen wearing silky lace slips under leather jackets, while female models were dressed in baggy pant suits and 80s golf attire. Combining the men's and women's shows is already a step in the right direction towards a non-binary industry, but here we are seeing early signs of blending the collections and eschewing labels altogether.
The whole presentation boasted a theatrical extravagance that rightfully demonstrated this Italian fashion power house's ability to revere uniqueness and quirkiness in the serious world of high fashion.