If Jonathan Anderson is anything, he is consistent. Season after season, J.W.Anderson delivers riveting collections that are elegant, interesting, and cohesive in the least obvious way possible. The Spring 2018 line was no exception.
As with many of Anderson’s recent collections, the designs included a vast array of colours and patterns, but was ultimately characterized and held together by an overall concentration on structural elements. The billowing swaths of fabric that have been a recurring component of Anderson’s garments were paired with linen bodices and leather jackets, making Spring 2018 equal parts fair maiden and normcore (albeit both upgraded versions).
On the whole, the season was sophisticated yet playful, in a way that manages to come off as chic and avant-garde rather than inauthentic or overly kitschy. There are few designers who could make a multicolour sequined striped mini-dress into the embodiment of elegance, let alone accomplish this feat with the addition of leather puffer cuffs and a ruffled collar. Stylistically, J.W.Anderson is saturated with this concept of hyper-femininity that almost recalls Renaissance or Victorian women’s dress, combined with a strong punch of modernism. By coupling unlikely shapes (à la this season’s ruched skirting appended to oversized pastel t-shirts) Anderson has asserted his line as the pinnacle of contemporary womenswear. It is through these improbable combinations that J.W.Anderson has brought about a whole new notion of femininity in fashion.
Jonathan Anderson may be consistent in the ethos of his collections, but his designs are in no way predictable or pedestrian. The “variations on a theme” approach to fashion allows Anderson to create diverse pieces that maintain coherency on a larger scale. Throughout his collections, Anderson has used his mastery of technique and form to conceptually challenge the perception of what it means to be feminine; it is this facet of his designs that makes J.W. Anderson such an extraordinary force.