This is my third season of not being at New York Fashion Week, but in all honesty, it's the first one where I have felt as though I am missing out. After a few seasons of stale collections that favoured the commercial instead of the creative, fashion critics are feeling daringly optimistic after last week's shows.
More young designers led the pack with collections that eschewed expectations and normal presentation formats, something I have personally felt was lacking in the New York circuit for many seasons. Thankfully, it also seems as though we have closed the chapter of every-single-collection-claiming-to-be-political-but-really-having-nothing-impactful-to-say. Without being bogged down by the weight of 'having' to claim some kind of socially declarative territory, designers could pursue their individual visions and create from a more authentic point of view, rather than one that was oftentimes forced. Maybe we're seeing a power shift, back to the days when imagination ruled the fashion agenda (and not social media).
Here are our top 5 Fall 2018 collections from New York Fashion Week:
Who: Marc Jacobs
What: Flourishes of glamour and power, swathed in cashmere and jewels - think wide-brimmed hats that shadow the face, blanket scarves like you've never seen, and shoulders, shoulders, shoulders. Demna Gvsalia's reign as the purveyor of all things oversized is officially over.
Takeaways: The 80s are alive and well, and so is American fashion.
Models: Dilone, Winnie Harlow, Alex Wek, Edie Campbell, Kaia Gerber.
Guests: Cardi B and Lil Kim, Anna Wintour, Debbie Harry, Miss Fame, Raf Simons, Sofia Coppola.
Who: Collina Strada (designed by Hillary Taymour)
What: The collection was called "Sologamy," and was set up like a wedding... with yourself. A refreshingly intellectual take on self-love and companionship, there were tulle, tiaras, leopard print, house coats, and a bride, none of which looked traditional or expected.
Takeaways: "Self-love is never selfish."
Models: Photographer and actress Sasha Frolova played the bride, and blogger twins (and #couturesquecrushes) Reese and Molly Blutstein were the twinning flower girls.
Who: Edun (designed by Dylan Kawahara)
What: Inspired by New Orleans, there was faux fur, recycled felt, co-ord suits, beaded bras, and everything we love about Edun, turned all the way up.
Takeaways: Ethical fashion doesn't have to sacrifice style.
Models: Achok and Mileshka.
Who: Raf Simons for Calvin Klein
What: American artist Sterling Ruby collaborated with Raf Simons, who also drew inspiration from Looney Tunes and "homespun Americana," combining quilted knitwear and balaclavas with construction uniforms and (yes, again) more checked blazers.
Takeaways: Raf hearts the USA.
Models: Lulu Tenney (duh), Selena Forrest, Kaia Gerber.
Guests: A$AP Rocky, Nicole Kidman, Millie Bobby Brown, Lupita Nyong'o, Paris Jackson.
Who: Ekhaus Latta (by Zoe Latta and Mike Ekhaus)
What: Another solid collection from the fastest rising young brand in the US, with all their signature signs of distressed softness, corsetry, and a spirit that is equally DIY and polished... presented in Bushwick, of course.
Takeaways: New York millennial snowflakes do it better.
Models: Lili Sumner, Thistle Brown, Jane Moseley, SOPHIE.
Honourable mentions: Adam Selman, Vacquera, Sandy Liang, ADEAM